A Quiet Sunday in Auvergne

8:20-Sunday-The First Market

Here I am in the center square in Gerzat early on a Sunday morning. I took the Tram and the bus to come a few miles northeast of Clermont to go to the Sunday market. The website said 7 to 1 but as I sit here at 8:20 most of the vendors are still setting up. That's fine since the next bus isn't for 40 minutes. It's neat to see the hustle and bustle of a very small town. People are laughing and joking. Others are catching up on the latest gossip.

The market has everything from clothing to meat and eggs. Of course there are lots of fresh fruits and vegetables. The cheese vendor is particularly pungent but seems busy. I am here for knives (and of course the experience and atmosphere.) You see there is a small town just north of here called Thiers where some of the worlds best knives and cutlery are made. I bought a few kitchen knives several years ago when I was here in France and some have gone missing. I heard that there are vendors here at the markets but have yet to come across one. There goes the town clock-one gong for the half hour. I suppose I'll go for another walk of the square and see what other vendors have set-up. Ah, there goes the local cycling club. Looks like about a dozen bikes setting out on the Tour de France, zig-zaging through the narrow streets.

Below are some pictures of some of the offereings in the market.

9:00-My Manners

Another pass of the market and most of the vendors are ready. They are all friendly and chatty. There are lots of: «Bonjour, Messieurs» and «Comment allez-vous Madame?» The French are very formal that way and I find myself reverting back to my Acadian roots and using «tu» way too much instead of «vous». I often apologize but they seem to understand when they see I'm from Canada.

It's neat to see all the locals out with their wicker baskets and carts. Everyone seems to be out for the market.

Here's a scene that would break an Auvergnois' heart. Many places were seem to be having sales on St. Nectaire. The there are a few especially famous cheeses from this region (Blue d'Auvergne is one of them) but this is the one most people will ask you to smuggle to the US if you tell them you are coming for a visit. I've heard stories of cheeses stuffed in luggage going through security and others about a wheel of cheese traveling halfway around Europe in the back of a car before arriving at its destination in Ballymena for a French expat or repatriated Michelin employee. In the second case the cheese had liquified in the center and had to be put in the garage to harden and dry a few weeks before it could be cut ("Is that why the garage smelled like that?" said the son of the fellow who told me the story).

9:12-Grandma is Getting Married, Again

The crowd seems to be picking up and the vendors are starting to promote their wares. There's still lots of chattering back and forth. If you can beleive it one vendor barked this out:

«Grande aubaine au bazar cette semaine! Venez voir mesdames et messieurs! La semaine prochaine on serrait pas la. Vous voyez, on marrie Grand-mère pour la troisième fois! Elle est déjà veuve deux foi et a soixante et quinze ans, ça sera la dernière fois!»

For those who didn't get that:

"Big sale at the market this week! Step right up ladies and gentlemen. We will not be here next week. You see, we are marrying off Grandmother for the third time! She is already twice a widow and at seventy five years old this is likely the last time she will wed!"

9:18-Public Transit That Works

Now off on the bus, the tram, and another bus to Cebazat for another market. I think I'll stop at the hotel for a pair of shorts. Hopefully I will find my knives at this next market. It sure is nice to be able to take the public transit everywhere. It made it so I didn't need to rent a car and that just reduces the stress here as well as the cost.

11:03-The Next Market

After a tram ride north I realize I would have a long wait for the connecting bus so I walk a few miles to Cebazat. The market was easy to find-I just follow the trail of people walking from the town center with bags, baskets, and carts. The market is incredible. This one has more of everything and two dealers in knives and cutlery. There is also artwork and some food vendors beyond the typical cheese, meat, and bread. The food vendors are perfect as I'll get to task a bit of the local offerings for lunch.

Below is some smoked fish. It reminded me of Nova Scotia when I saw it. I also saw eggs by the basket at one both, still with mud and straw on them. You just know those were fresh.

I even saw a scene that looked surprisingly like the Wolfville market. There is apparently a favorite bakery as the line up for this one proves. I thought there would be enough to go around but it seems there are favorites everywhere. This market has more flower and plant vendors. Their growing season here seems to be much like in South Carolina.

Some of you have been to the downtown market in Greenville with us on Saturdays in the summer and fall. I once read a review that compared it to the markets in Europe. I don't think the person that wrote the review had ever been to Europe. They really have a lot to learn, although I applaud them for trying. On the way onto the market I crossed a stream. There were some kids feeding the trout. Some were over a foot long! (the trout, not the kids!) I couldn't get a good picture but the whole scene was nice in the sun.

Another thing that I like here is that dogs are welcome in the market, something that doesn't happen in the US and Canada. In fact dogs are welcome just about everywhere. France has really cleaned up its act when it comes to picking up after your dog. The streets and parks, at least where I am and have been, all have signs, bags, and bins.

I'm sitting in the shade in the park next to the square as the locals wonder in and out to get their stuff debating whether to eat or shop. I did find what I was looking for but need to weigh the price...maybe some bread and cheese will help. Or some sausage. I'll be right back...

12:20-Back to the Hotel

Waiting for the next Tram after having hiked back from the market (apparently the buses don't run midday on Sunday). I did buy some of what I wanted but also managed to haggle with the dealer to what I think is a more reasonable price.

The weather here is unseasonably warm. I've heard people say it feels like July. today we are looking at about 28°C (that's about 82°F). I only packed one T-shirt and s pair of shorts and I don't have any sunscreen. It's a far cry from the rain, drizzle, and fog we had in Ballymena. Having said that there are always lots of paysans in the market dressed in their button-up shirt, wool sweaters, and wool jackets. It's more than I could handle. Here is the tram...got to go.

The tram goes by a few Michelin facilities on its travels. Below is a shot of a clock that counts litres of fuel saved because of Michelin's Green Tires. It is mounted on the tracks that are/were used to test tires. They are essentially a huge half pipe with a long ramp on both ends connected by a straightaway.

Now back to the hotel for a nap and then out for some food at the restaurant. Eating out here is popular but nothing like in the US. It is sometime difficult to find a restaurant on a Sunday. There is also very little shopping on Sunday. Some of the little boutiques near the markets were open but the rest of the town is pretty much closed. I will try to nip out in the morning to get a few things. In addition to souvenirs and gifts I have been tasked with getting some school supplies for Isabelle. You see when she starts at the French Bilingual School in Greenville in the fall she needs some things you can't get in the US. There is one particular ruler she needs that I will try to get. I hope I can find it. There isn't a Office Depot here in Clermont but hopefully someone at work or in the hotel can send me in the right direction.