Clermont

Since Saturday, leaving my friends and colleagues behind in Ireland, it seems like I've been getting lonelier and lonelier. Yesterday wasn't bad. You read all about it. But today was a little rough. I was even considering that maybe I wouldn't be happy here (if ever I had the opportunity).

Today wasn't much better. I had a slow morning and some meetings this afternoon until about 7:00. The French do tend to work late, but they also get to go home for lunch and don't all roll in until after 8:00. I did manage to sneak out this morning to do a little shopping for Isabelle and Jane at one of the neatest and most expansive bookstores in the city, Les Volcans. I also hit a little toy store that was jammed with some really cool toys and games.

Now I'm sitting in the shadow of the cathedral of Clermont at one of my favorite restaurants in all of France. The breeze is light and warm and of course people are speaking french all around as the day draws to an end. What might be the best steak in the world just got put in front of me.

The truffade is next, in the same frying pan that it was cooked in. It is arguably the best way to cook potatoes in the whole wide world. You cook the potato from raw with onion and lots and lots of garlic. Once it is well on its way you add some tomme fresh de cantal or fresh cheese. Of course the whole meal started with a lovely pot of foie gras and crusty bread. This is the restaurant Le Caveau at its best. I've Probably been here maybe six times in all and I still love it.

Usually in the colder winter months you sit in the basement (down the stairs that are behind the wrought iron fence) and get a real feel for the hidden treasure of Clermont as the cook (he's not a chef by most standards) cooks the food right next to you on his large old stove. Tonight I sat in front of the building but not before going down the steps to meet the cook (oops). Everything is pan fried, in a good way. By the way, vegetables are not on the menu here, it is strictly meat and potatoes. The wine is red and local and not too expensive; that's all I know about it.

I guess now I'm reevaluating things a little. I feel much better about things and the homesickness has been replaced by wishing Jane and Isabelle were here to enjoy this with me. The first time I was here was with Jane and it might have been the trip that sealed the deal. I think once she found out I had the potential to get transferred here she didn't let go (although I may have given her an opportunity or two to reconsider). Now I know I made the right decision and I hope she feels that way too.

Now the last course, which as Jane will likely remember, is way more than anyone really needs. I have the largest plate of creme caramel (enough to feed three people) I have ever seen. It is also the richest, thickest caramel I have ever had. It is more than I need but I... will... finish... it. I will start running again the day after I get home, I promise.

I'll leave you with some other shots of Clermont-Ferrand.

The cathedral as seen form Place de la Victoire.

Place de Jaude, the largest open space in the inner city with cool fountains that dance and spray the kids.

The tram again. (No he isn't tying his shoe-he's hitching a ride on his roller blades!)

The cathedral from the bottom of Rue des Gras. The yellow and blue is the colour of the local athletic club, the ASM. The finals are coming up and people are showing their team spirit. It is no coincidence that those are the Michelin colours.

Just off place de la Victoire by the cathedral is the local Michelin boutique.

Place de Jaude a dusk. The statue on the left is of Vercingetorix (follow the link) and is by the same person who did the Statue of Liberty, Bartholdi.