Another Kayak Update

The boat is finally coming together. I have about six coats of Rust-Oleum in Sunburst Yellow on it and have learned a few things along the way. After about the fourth coat the paint finally stopped soaking into the canvas and the enamel started to show its true value. The only issue was that the canvas also started to pill and wasn't as smooth as I had hoped. But, since the paint was starting to do it's thing, a quick sanding with some 80 grit sandpaper took care of everything.

The bow and stern have at least eight or nine coats since they've been painted every time the paint was out. They are truly smooth and tough, but they will be taking the most of the abuse.

The mottled spots in the pictures mean the whole thing needs another coat. I hope to have a relatively smooth finish when it's all done. I did have some concerns at first about using Rust-Oleum, but the price, the colour selection, and the ease of application, once you know what your doing, convinced me otherwise.

The next step will be the stencils in Hunter Green and Smoke Grey. I also plan to paint the cockpit coaming green as well as adding some designs to the front and back. The stencils are of a nautical theme, with sea stars, fish, seahorses, sharks, and turtles. Isabelle picked them out and will be helping me put it all together. I also need to do up a paddle for her too, after I fix my own...

Next post: A Day (or Four) at the Beach...including some kayak surfing.

Schools and Travel

Part I - The New School

Several weeks ago we were all invited to a celebration at the École Française Bilingue (also know as the Michelin School.) Another family in the neighborhood with a little girl a year older than Isabelle had invited us out to it. I must admit I was a little apprehensive about crashing a school party where I wouldn't know hardly anyone but I was glad we followed our friend's advice and attended. It was a beautiful day weather wise and we met some people we will likely get to know better next year when Isabelle attends the school.

The celebration was like what we would call an old fashioned church picnic. There were performances by the students to start, followed by a pot-luck lunch. Then for the rest of the afternoon there were loads of games for the children.

The skits and songs by the students were very good although I couldn't follow most of the skits. They were often not loud enough and the kids spoke softly or too fast. The songs were also good with interpretations of Sweet Home Alabama and at least 6 or 8 versions of Frère Jacques each in a different language by the Grande Section students. Grande Section is the class Isabelle will be in when she starts next year, its like kindergarden. The French have a different system than we do in North America.

For lunch Jane and I decided on quiche because it was simple and could be served cold. We weren't the only ones. There must have twenty different kinds on the table. On the other hand there were lots of other things to chose from. There were lovely meats, cheeses, a very good potato salad, some African dishes, and of course a few traditional American dishes.

We ate well but it turns out the best was yet to come. You see the lunch was free but the dessert was a fund raiser for the school. Some people had brought some very impressive desserts, almost exclusively home made. This is a far cry from the school Isabelle is at now where everything is usually from one of two of the local big box grocery stores.

I had a peach tart and a crème brûlée to start while Jane opted for a Japanese jelly (I think) with strawberries suspended in it. Whatever it was it looked very pretty and was all very good. In the end I tracked down the tin we brought the quiche in and went back for more to take home. I can't remember all tat I got but the chocolate cake and the fudge brownies were particularly good. I think there was a raspberry tart as well which was particularly noteworthy (and I don't usually like raspberries).

After the food came the games. There were eight or more booths or stations set up in the playground and each child was given a card to keep track of their scores and participation. Once they were through all the activities they got to collect a prize. Of course Isabelle wanted a book. All in all a good day.

One of the best parts was that Isabelle got to spend some time at the school, if mainly in the playground, and she met both her teachers for next year. She'll have a French teacher and an English teacher since the program will be bilingual. She also got to meet the other five kids who will be in her class since most of them have siblings at the school and were there for the celebration.

I have to say that only having seven or eight students in the class could be a good and a bad thing at the same time. It will certainly be interesting to see how she adapts. I don't think she takes her French seriously yet as Jane and I are essentially the only ones speaking it to her on a regular basis. The principal at the school told us when we first met him in the fall that he believes she'll be fine. He's seen it before with both English and French students. He suspected she'll come home one day about October or November and her French will be just as strong as her English and I won't have to force it out of her. She'll likely be helping the French kids along in English as they bolster her French, at least that's what I hope will happen.

We are also a little worried about her other skills but hope she won't be too bored in English classes (she can already read basic books) while not getting too frustrated in French classes. I understand here math skills may be a little advanced too. I guess the Montessori program was very good for her despite the ups and downs we've had along the way.

Part II The Flights Home 28-May-09

7:00 CET-Clermont Airport-Aulnat France Up at 5:00 and the first flight is delayed 20 minutes for a "minor" technical issue. Plane is 3/4 empty so I get a good seat. Pilot claims we will get in on time. I follow a little old lady who practically gets lost on the bridge to the plane. She makes a big fuss over the delay with the airline representative and claims she's in a hurry to make Paris because she has a "rendez-vous." In the end she payed no attention to the gate agent when he calls for her boarding pass and I had to remind her we were boarding. The gate agent and I can't help but have a little chuckle over it.

The flight is fine, pain au chocolat and orange juice for breakfast. Of course they look at you funny in France if you don't have coffee.

9:05 CET-Paris Charles de Gaule Airport-Roissy France Ran between airport terminals as the shuttle service didn't seem to be running. Made my gate in time to hear my name called. Was not upgraded but needed to clear extra security. I guess being a Canadian living in the USA having gone through Northern Ireland and leaving France made me suspicious. The gate at CDG was a bus gate which means a 10 to 15 minute bus ride to the plane out on the tarmac. Hopefully we will leave on time.

10:06 EDT-Flying over PEI, Canada So far a good flight with little turbulence. I've been fed twice but will likely need another meal. I know what time it is but it's hard to tell what time it feels. If you consider I got up just as some of you were going to bed so that I could arrive in Greenville for supper it makes for a long day. Twelve hours in three planes and six time zones (seven if you count Newfoundland but I guess its really only half a time zone).

No head winds for a change so it looks like we'll be in right on time. Thankfully there are no medical issues either (see earlier blog entry from last year called The Longest flight Ever). I also appreciate how a good seatmate helps on the flight. The petite musician sitting next to me (she came in carrying a violin) doesn't fight for the arm rest and smells much better than the Irish rugby player I sat next to on the way over. He was a very large man. The only thing he didn't do was snore. Now there is the couple in front of me who have their seats back all the way down and have been to the washroom ten times between the two of them. There is a reason I take it easy on the Coke and water when I fly.

12:21 EDT-Newark Liberty Airport-Newark NJ, USA Well the landing was a little rough. It almost sounded like we blew a tire. It was certainly hard so I hope Continental flies (and rides) on Michelins. The landing even knocked open a few of the overhead compartments. I don't think I've ever seen that happen and I've had a few hairy landings coming into St. John's and Halifax in wintertime.

4:31 EDT-Newark Liberty Airport-Newark NJ, USA Finally boarding in Newark. The plane which was coming from Rochester NY was over an hour late getting into the air. There were other flights late from the Great Lakes so there may have been something going on. I don't think it was weather but who knows. Used the Internet to get my email and do some work (if anyone at work is reading this) and met a nice older couple from the UK going to Toronto. Their flight was also delayed. Didn't get anything to eat since I'm not sure what my body thinks. Maybe I'll be hungry when I finally get home. Well, not the worst travel day but not the best one either.

Clermont

Since Saturday, leaving my friends and colleagues behind in Ireland, it seems like I've been getting lonelier and lonelier. Yesterday wasn't bad. You read all about it. But today was a little rough. I was even considering that maybe I wouldn't be happy here (if ever I had the opportunity).

Today wasn't much better. I had a slow morning and some meetings this afternoon until about 7:00. The French do tend to work late, but they also get to go home for lunch and don't all roll in until after 8:00. I did manage to sneak out this morning to do a little shopping for Isabelle and Jane at one of the neatest and most expansive bookstores in the city, Les Volcans. I also hit a little toy store that was jammed with some really cool toys and games.

Now I'm sitting in the shadow of the cathedral of Clermont at one of my favorite restaurants in all of France. The breeze is light and warm and of course people are speaking french all around as the day draws to an end. What might be the best steak in the world just got put in front of me.

The truffade is next, in the same frying pan that it was cooked in. It is arguably the best way to cook potatoes in the whole wide world. You cook the potato from raw with onion and lots and lots of garlic. Once it is well on its way you add some tomme fresh de cantal or fresh cheese. Of course the whole meal started with a lovely pot of foie gras and crusty bread. This is the restaurant Le Caveau at its best. I've Probably been here maybe six times in all and I still love it.

Usually in the colder winter months you sit in the basement (down the stairs that are behind the wrought iron fence) and get a real feel for the hidden treasure of Clermont as the cook (he's not a chef by most standards) cooks the food right next to you on his large old stove. Tonight I sat in front of the building but not before going down the steps to meet the cook (oops). Everything is pan fried, in a good way. By the way, vegetables are not on the menu here, it is strictly meat and potatoes. The wine is red and local and not too expensive; that's all I know about it.

I guess now I'm reevaluating things a little. I feel much better about things and the homesickness has been replaced by wishing Jane and Isabelle were here to enjoy this with me. The first time I was here was with Jane and it might have been the trip that sealed the deal. I think once she found out I had the potential to get transferred here she didn't let go (although I may have given her an opportunity or two to reconsider). Now I know I made the right decision and I hope she feels that way too.

Now the last course, which as Jane will likely remember, is way more than anyone really needs. I have the largest plate of creme caramel (enough to feed three people) I have ever seen. It is also the richest, thickest caramel I have ever had. It is more than I need but I... will... finish... it. I will start running again the day after I get home, I promise.

I'll leave you with some other shots of Clermont-Ferrand.

The cathedral as seen form Place de la Victoire.

Place de Jaude, the largest open space in the inner city with cool fountains that dance and spray the kids.

The tram again. (No he isn't tying his shoe-he's hitching a ride on his roller blades!)

The cathedral from the bottom of Rue des Gras. The yellow and blue is the colour of the local athletic club, the ASM. The finals are coming up and people are showing their team spirit. It is no coincidence that those are the Michelin colours.

Just off place de la Victoire by the cathedral is the local Michelin boutique.

Place de Jaude a dusk. The statue on the left is of Vercingetorix (follow the link) and is by the same person who did the Statue of Liberty, Bartholdi.

A Quiet Sunday in Auvergne

8:20-Sunday-The First Market

Here I am in the center square in Gerzat early on a Sunday morning. I took the Tram and the bus to come a few miles northeast of Clermont to go to the Sunday market. The website said 7 to 1 but as I sit here at 8:20 most of the vendors are still setting up. That's fine since the next bus isn't for 40 minutes. It's neat to see the hustle and bustle of a very small town. People are laughing and joking. Others are catching up on the latest gossip.

The market has everything from clothing to meat and eggs. Of course there are lots of fresh fruits and vegetables. The cheese vendor is particularly pungent but seems busy. I am here for knives (and of course the experience and atmosphere.) You see there is a small town just north of here called Thiers where some of the worlds best knives and cutlery are made. I bought a few kitchen knives several years ago when I was here in France and some have gone missing. I heard that there are vendors here at the markets but have yet to come across one. There goes the town clock-one gong for the half hour. I suppose I'll go for another walk of the square and see what other vendors have set-up. Ah, there goes the local cycling club. Looks like about a dozen bikes setting out on the Tour de France, zig-zaging through the narrow streets.

Below are some pictures of some of the offereings in the market.

9:00-My Manners

Another pass of the market and most of the vendors are ready. They are all friendly and chatty. There are lots of: «Bonjour, Messieurs» and «Comment allez-vous Madame?» The French are very formal that way and I find myself reverting back to my Acadian roots and using «tu» way too much instead of «vous». I often apologize but they seem to understand when they see I'm from Canada.

It's neat to see all the locals out with their wicker baskets and carts. Everyone seems to be out for the market.

Here's a scene that would break an Auvergnois' heart. Many places were seem to be having sales on St. Nectaire. The there are a few especially famous cheeses from this region (Blue d'Auvergne is one of them) but this is the one most people will ask you to smuggle to the US if you tell them you are coming for a visit. I've heard stories of cheeses stuffed in luggage going through security and others about a wheel of cheese traveling halfway around Europe in the back of a car before arriving at its destination in Ballymena for a French expat or repatriated Michelin employee. In the second case the cheese had liquified in the center and had to be put in the garage to harden and dry a few weeks before it could be cut ("Is that why the garage smelled like that?" said the son of the fellow who told me the story).

9:12-Grandma is Getting Married, Again

The crowd seems to be picking up and the vendors are starting to promote their wares. There's still lots of chattering back and forth. If you can beleive it one vendor barked this out:

«Grande aubaine au bazar cette semaine! Venez voir mesdames et messieurs! La semaine prochaine on serrait pas la. Vous voyez, on marrie Grand-mère pour la troisième fois! Elle est déjà veuve deux foi et a soixante et quinze ans, ça sera la dernière fois!»

For those who didn't get that:

"Big sale at the market this week! Step right up ladies and gentlemen. We will not be here next week. You see, we are marrying off Grandmother for the third time! She is already twice a widow and at seventy five years old this is likely the last time she will wed!"

9:18-Public Transit That Works

Now off on the bus, the tram, and another bus to Cebazat for another market. I think I'll stop at the hotel for a pair of shorts. Hopefully I will find my knives at this next market. It sure is nice to be able to take the public transit everywhere. It made it so I didn't need to rent a car and that just reduces the stress here as well as the cost.

11:03-The Next Market

After a tram ride north I realize I would have a long wait for the connecting bus so I walk a few miles to Cebazat. The market was easy to find-I just follow the trail of people walking from the town center with bags, baskets, and carts. The market is incredible. This one has more of everything and two dealers in knives and cutlery. There is also artwork and some food vendors beyond the typical cheese, meat, and bread. The food vendors are perfect as I'll get to task a bit of the local offerings for lunch.

Below is some smoked fish. It reminded me of Nova Scotia when I saw it. I also saw eggs by the basket at one both, still with mud and straw on them. You just know those were fresh.

I even saw a scene that looked surprisingly like the Wolfville market. There is apparently a favorite bakery as the line up for this one proves. I thought there would be enough to go around but it seems there are favorites everywhere. This market has more flower and plant vendors. Their growing season here seems to be much like in South Carolina.

Some of you have been to the downtown market in Greenville with us on Saturdays in the summer and fall. I once read a review that compared it to the markets in Europe. I don't think the person that wrote the review had ever been to Europe. They really have a lot to learn, although I applaud them for trying. On the way onto the market I crossed a stream. There were some kids feeding the trout. Some were over a foot long! (the trout, not the kids!) I couldn't get a good picture but the whole scene was nice in the sun.

Another thing that I like here is that dogs are welcome in the market, something that doesn't happen in the US and Canada. In fact dogs are welcome just about everywhere. France has really cleaned up its act when it comes to picking up after your dog. The streets and parks, at least where I am and have been, all have signs, bags, and bins.

I'm sitting in the shade in the park next to the square as the locals wonder in and out to get their stuff debating whether to eat or shop. I did find what I was looking for but need to weigh the price...maybe some bread and cheese will help. Or some sausage. I'll be right back...

12:20-Back to the Hotel

Waiting for the next Tram after having hiked back from the market (apparently the buses don't run midday on Sunday). I did buy some of what I wanted but also managed to haggle with the dealer to what I think is a more reasonable price.

The weather here is unseasonably warm. I've heard people say it feels like July. today we are looking at about 28°C (that's about 82°F). I only packed one T-shirt and s pair of shorts and I don't have any sunscreen. It's a far cry from the rain, drizzle, and fog we had in Ballymena. Having said that there are always lots of paysans in the market dressed in their button-up shirt, wool sweaters, and wool jackets. It's more than I could handle. Here is the tram...got to go.

The tram goes by a few Michelin facilities on its travels. Below is a shot of a clock that counts litres of fuel saved because of Michelin's Green Tires. It is mounted on the tracks that are/were used to test tires. They are essentially a huge half pipe with a long ramp on both ends connected by a straightaway.

Now back to the hotel for a nap and then out for some food at the restaurant. Eating out here is popular but nothing like in the US. It is sometime difficult to find a restaurant on a Sunday. There is also very little shopping on Sunday. Some of the little boutiques near the markets were open but the rest of the town is pretty much closed. I will try to nip out in the morning to get a few things. In addition to souvenirs and gifts I have been tasked with getting some school supplies for Isabelle. You see when she starts at the French Bilingual School in Greenville in the fall she needs some things you can't get in the US. There is one particular ruler she needs that I will try to get. I hope I can find it. There isn't a Office Depot here in Clermont but hopefully someone at work or in the hotel can send me in the right direction.

One in a Million

I think many of you have heard of a theory outlining Six Degrees of Separation or the Small World Experiment. Here is my corollary: the You Can't Go Anywhere Phenomena.

Three examples follow. (By the way I am currently in the Belfast International Airport just musing about the world.)

1. The China Town Event

Many years ago when the family went our west (Canada that is) for my uncle's wedding we took advantage of the trip to go all the way to the west coast. We visited Vancouver, drove through the mountains, and visited with my other aunt and uncle in Kamloops. The strange event happened in Vancouver in what I remember as Chinatown. I remember going into a store to look at some things and stumbling across my cousin and neighbor from Nova Scotia sitting in the back of the store in a wicker chair. It turned out she was there as part of a church group trip. I'm not sure my parents knew she was there but I certainly didn't. (The memory of this event may be a little off since it was over twenty years ago, but this is how I remember it.)

2. The Clermont Connection

I am on my way to Clermont in France for some meetings but one of the last times I went I was surprised by a call from my colleague when I arrived at the hotel. It turned out he had arrived a little after I did but his room wasn't ready. He suggested I come down and meet his "new" friend form Canada (as if we all know each other). I went down and met the gentlemen. After we talked for a while it turned out he knew of where I lived. In fact his brother in law lived just around the corner. His brother in law was also my wife's cousin (not first cousin but still...). It also came about that we had met a few week's earlier at a family gathering. There were so many people there neither he nor I recognized each other when we first saw each other in Clermont. He was in Clermont for work as well and we did have supper later in the week before heading back to Canada (where my American colleague still believes we all either know each other or are related).

3. The Ireland Encounter

Today I check in for my flight to Paris after having made certain my other colleague met up with his wife who was flying in to do spend a few days touring. Just as I am heading up to security I recognize a couple of little fellows. They look a lot like Isabelle's friends form home. Once I see the mother and father I realize they are neighbors form South Carolina and live just up the street from us. They were just headed home from a trip to Ireland. We chatted a few minutes and wished each other a good trip.

I guess the point I'm making is: It's a very small world, so keep an eye out, you never know who you might see.